FREQUENT QUESTIONS

Delivery and order tracking

If there is any delay for whatever reason, we’ll let you know via e-mail as soon as possible.

We are shipping our goods with external carriers. Estimated delivery times are 1-2 business days for shipments within Germany and 3-7 business days for shipments within Europe. Shipments to countries outside of Europe might take longer, please check carrier information for further details on this.

Size guide

Finding the correct size for skates isn’t always easy. We’re trying to make finding the correct size as easy as possible. Because of different padding thicknesses, construction types and general shapes the sizes are not always exactly the same between models and especially not between different brands.

To find the perfect size for your needs we offer a size chart for each individual model we are selling. To see where on this table your feet are at, please follow the following steps:

  • Put on the socks you will also use for skating
  • Place a piece of paper straight against a solid and flat wall (door frames are normally a good choice here)
  • Place your foot onto the paper with your heel touching the wall and full body weight on the foot
  • Use a hardcover book or anything similar shaped to determine and mark the furthest point your foot reaches on your piece of paper (longest distance heel to toe)
  • Repeat these steps with both your feet. It’s not unusual for two feet to have different sizes
  • You should now be able to measure the maximum length of your feet from your paper
  • For a direct and tight fit, use the exact length measured to find your size on the size chart. For a more comfortable fit, add 3-4mm to your measured length.

When done measuring your feet you can now check the size chart of the desired model to find your ideal size.

If one of your feet is bigger than the other, we recommend basing your choice on the bigger size.

The numbers given on our size charts indicate the biggest possible length for each size. When close to the maximum length of a size also think about your own preferences on rather you like your skates to fit tight or roomier.

HEAT MOLDING

Please check the product description/details section of your skate or the skate of desire to see if it is heat moldable or not and to find out which parts are heat moldable. If you are still not sure about it, don’t hesitate to contact our support team.

This information can be found in the product description or details section. Please stick to the information given, to avoid damage to your product. If you have any additional questions that are not to be found within our FAQs or tutorials, don’t hesitate to contact us directly.

Yes, if you are not satisfied with the result of your heat molding attempt, you can repeat the whole process multiple times until you reach the desired fit.

No. Precisely: NO! Microwaving your liners/skates is dangerous. Heat molding only works with an oven.

If you want to eliminate pressure points or simply want to optimize the fit of your skates/liners by heat molding, you should follow these simple steps.

The first thing you need to do:

Check the product description/detail section to see rather your skate/liner is heat moldable or not. If this is to be answered with a yes, follow the next steps. If not, check our FAQs to find information on how to improve fitting without heat molding.

 For all kinds of heat molding we recommend wearing high and thicker skating socks to avoid your skin getting in contact with the heated materials.

If the room inside your oven does not allow for two liners or skates to fit in with enough distance from walls and heating elements, it’s best to do each piece one by one.

Before heat molding: Preheat your oven (electric) to the temperature (fan assisted) given in the product description/detail section. Remember to wear high-cut skating socks to protect your skin!

  1. Remove the liners from your skates
  2. Remove innersoles and additional parts, just like protectors, shock absorbers, or laces
  3. Preheat your oven (electric) to 80-90°C (fan-assisted). If possible, use an additional oven thermometer to assure the temperate does not exceed the desired 80-90°C
  4. Place your liners centered inside the preheated oven. Make sure they don’t touch any walls or fall over.
  5. Leave the liners in the oven for 8-9 minutes. While waiting you can prepare your skates you want to skate the liners with. Untie the laces and open buckles/straps so you can easily slip inside with your liners.
  6. After 8-9 minutes remove your liners from the oven and put your innersoles back inside. Be careful, the liners are very hot and soft at this point. But do this and the following steps as quickly as possible so the liners do not cool down already.
  7. Put the liners back into the skates. Again, be careful with the now soft liners not to squeeze them in with too much force in order to avoid damage to the padding
  8. While seated, put your feet into your skates and lace and buckle them up tightly. Bend your knees slightly forward to reach a skating-like position
  9. Now wait for around 5-10 minutes until the liners are cooled down again and remain in the newly given shape

Before heat molding: Preheat your oven (electric) to the temperature (fan assisted) given in the product description/detail section. Remember to wear high-cut skating socks to protect your skin!

  1. Remove wheels from your skates. If applicable, remove innersoles. All other parts like buckles, laces and straps can remain on your skates
  2. Open buckles and laces wide enough so you can easily slip into the skate
  3. Place skate inside the preheated oven. Make sure no loose parts touch any walls and that your skates won’t fall over
  4. Leave your skate inside the oven for around 15 minutes
  5. Get the skate out of the oven and be careful with metal parts as they get extremely hot during the process. If applicable put your innersole back into the skate.
  6. While seated, put your foot into the skate and tighten laces and buckles up tightly so the skate wraps around your foot. If buckles are too hot to touch, we recommend wearing gloves or using a wet towel as protection. The skate will be very hot at the beginning of this process. Remember to wear socks.
  7. While still seated, bend your knees forward slightly to a skate-like position. Wait until the skate has cooled down before taking it off

We recommend doing each side’s skate individually so you have enough time to focus on lacing the skates without having to worry too much for them to cool down too soon.

If you want to fix major pressure points, we recommend applying additional padding to the pressure point on your foot, before stepping into your skate for molding. This will result in additional space around that area after heat molding.

Before heat molding: Preheat your oven (electric) to the temperature (fan assisted) given in the product description/detail section. Remember to wear high-cut skating socks to protect your skin!

  1. Remove wheels from your skates. All other parts like buckles, laces and straps can remain on your skates
  2. Remove the liners from the skates and take innersoles and any other additional parts, just like shock-absorbers, out.
  3. Open buckles and laces wide enough so you can easily slip into the skate
  4. Place skate and liner inside the preheated oven. Make sure no loose parts touch any walls and that your skates won’t fall over
  5. Leave your skate and liner inside the oven for around 10 minutes
  6. Get the skate out of the oven and be careful with metal parts as they get extremely hot during the process. If applicable put your innersole back into the liner
  7. Put the liners back into the skates. Again, be careful with the now soft liners not to squeeze them in with too much force in order to avoid damage to the padding
  8. While seated, put your foot into the skate and tighten laces and buckles up tightly so the skate wraps around your foot. If buckles are too hot to touch, we recommend wearing gloves or using a wet towel as protection. The skate will be very hot at the beginning of this process. Remember to wear socks.
  9. While still seated, bend your knees forward slightly to a skate-like position. Wait until the skate has cooled down before taking it off

We recommend doing each side’s skate individually so you have enough time to focus on lacing the skates without having to worry too much for them to cool down too soon.

If you want to fix major pressure points, we recommend applying additional padding to the pressure point on your foot, before stepping into your skate for molding. This will result in additional space around that area after heat molding.

Maintenance

No. Our bearings are not rust-proof and should be cleaned after every time they get in contact with water.

Yes, you should clean your skates. No need to do it every week but show them some love once in a while.

Yes.

Liners: Liners are not made for washing machine use. This is possibly going to damage the lining and padding materials. Instead, we recommend to just rinse them with warm, clear water and if needed a soft brush. Allow the materials to dry afterward. Be careful with placing them on heaters or using hair dryers as these might also damage the fabrics.

Outside of your boots: Same for this but you can rub a little harder on these parts, they are designed to take a bit of a beating. Refrain from using chemicals to avoid damage to materials or discoloring!

Bearings: Cleaning your bearings is a big and cheap upgrade to get. For steel bearings, we recommend using alcohol-based or all-purpose cleaners. For ceramic bearings, it’s best to use dish soap with hot water to free them from dust and dirt. The following steps are the same for both kinds:

First of all; We recommend wearing gloves during the cleaning process

Remove bearings from wheels

  • Remove bearing shields with a pin by gently reaching under the edge of the shields with it and popping them out. Make sure not to bend them so you can put them back in afterward. Do not remove the retainer/cag holding the balls in place (You can, but it’s a lot of frustrating work to collect and put the balls back between inner and outer rings. We definitely do not recommend this.)
  • Use a towel to remove dust and dirt from visible and reachable parts of the bearings. You can also use a soft to medium brush to do this
  • Insert the bearings into a qualified container with cleaning liquids
  • Carefully shake/pan the container to rinse out dust and dirt from the bearings
  • Remove the bearings and depending on which cleaning liquid has been used, dispose responsibly
  • Dry the bearing with a towel and remove all liquid left inside of them. You can do this either with air pressure or if not available by spinning the bearings to propel the leftover liquids out
  • Once completely dry, apply lubrication to the bearings. We recommend standard WD-40 or similar products for this
  • Reapply the bearing shields to keep the lubrication inside and dirt outside

Our wheels are made from Polyurethane typically with a hardness range from 85A-90A. Every slide, slip or simply push will make your wheel wear down and there is nothing you or we can do about that. Yet you can make sure your wheels wear down evenly so you have fun with them for longer. To do so it’s recommended to switch and rotate your wheels every now and then. Depending on your style of skating and general use your wheel wear might be quite individual. For normal skating without doing many slides it’s best to stick with the following pattern:

 

3 Wheel Setups:

  • Front left —> right middle and vice versa (don’t rotate)
  • Front Right —> left middle and vice versa (don’t rotate)
  • Heel wheel —> switch with other skate (don’t rotate)

 

4 Wheel Setups:

  • Front left —> 3rd position right side
  • 2nd left —> heel right
  • 3rd left —> first right
  • Heel left —> 2nd right

Vice versa for your right skate and make sure not to rotate the wheels while switching

When doing many one-sided slides, you’ll need to switch and rotate the wheels in an individual pattern, based on your technique and weight distribution. Check the shape of your wheels and rotate/switch flattened sides in a way so your slides are done on the rounder side.

Products and compatibility

Yes, all our wheels work with standard 608 bearings too.

Yes, with all Decode bearings we include shorter (7mm) spacers. By turning the extended sides of the bearings’ inner rings to the inside of the wheel while using the short spacers you can use them just like normal 608 bearings.

Yes, most wheels in the market can be used with our Decode system. Simply check that your wheels or the wheels you are looking to get use the 608 bearing standard and have a width of 24mm.

No. To create the Decode concept, we eliminated the so-called bearing bosses from our frames, which means that normal bearings will be too narrow to work with Decode frames. There is the option to use washers, placed between frames and bearings to act as the bearing boss. We do not offer or recommend this option because it’s less stable and because there is a risk of the axles becoming loose.

Yes, we officially obtained the license to produce and use the TRINITY 3-point mounting system. That for all our TRINITY products follow exactly the same standards as other TRINITY products in the market and can be used with each other. At the moment TRINITY products are made by Powerslide, Kizer, Endless and IQON.

All our bearings are based on the standard size for 608 bearings. 8mm inner diameter, 22mm outer diameter and 7mm in width. Our Decode bearings come with extended inner-rings with a width/length of 8,5mm. The extension only applies to one side of each bearing, allowing to use them like standard 608 bearings when using a (included) shorter spacer.

Our bearings are deep groove ball bearings, 8mm single row radial ball bearings precisely, and consist of the following parts:

  • Outer ring — 52100 chrome steel ring, flat on the outside, with polished and hardened raceways on its inside
  • Inner ring — 52100 chrome steel ring, flat on the inside to fit axles, with polished and hardened raceways on the outside
  • Balls — 6 of them, heat treated 52100 chrome steel for increased hardness (Decode GOLD) or Si3N4 ceramic (Decode CERAM1K)
  • Retainer/cage — Nylon composite, holding the balls in place
  • Shields — Rubber coated steel, protecting your bearings from dust and dirt. RZ means, the bearings have one rubber coated shield.

The hardness of our wheels is indicated using the SHORE A hardness scale. The higher the number, the harder the wheel compound. Harder wheels typically* have better rolling capabilities and better wear resistance compared to softer compounds. The benefit of softer compounds is that they offer more grip and a smoother and more comfortable ride, especially on rough asphalt.

*“Harder wheels are always faster” is a widely spread myth and not 100% true. When skating on rougher surfaces, softer wheels cause fewer vibrations and that for offer a better roll. Yet, it’s true that in many or most cases a harder wheel still makes for a faster ride.

Wheels come in various shapes and sizes. Mostly round though. The general rule to start with: Bigger wheels are faster once at speed and get you to a higher speed in total, smaller wheels are faster to accelerate and allow for more agility.

Let’s get into some more details:
The bigger the wheel the easier it is to maintain your speed. Bigger diameters also have the benefit of rolling over small obstacles, just as small rocks or other dirt that might be in your way, easier. A bigger wheel also leads to a bigger standing height though which makes it harder to stay balanced on them, especially when landing jumps.

Smaller wheels are easier to accelerate but also limit your top speed. The low standing height assures stability, balance and causes less stress on your ankles. All in all, it’s hard to recommend the perfect size for a skater. Take into consideration your main skating style, environment, ankle stability and skill and be open to test around a bit.

Similar to the size every wheel profile also comes with advantages and disadvantages when compared to each other.

Flat profile: Just as the name suggests, these wheels come with an almost flat/straight profile. Their shape has been designed to offer a wide and stable platform to roll on and they find use in anti-rocker setups quite often.

Round profile: Again, the name gives the shape away. These wheels come with a rounded profile making it easier to control the edges and maneuver the skates. They still offer a fairly wide base and stability.

Balanced profile: You’ll guess where this is going by here. Mainly used on wheels from 80mm where speed and control on and over edges gain relevance. Balanced between biggest possible footprint while on edges and wide enough platform for the straight-line roll.

Bullet profile: With this one, you’ll have to read between the lines a bit to read it from the name already. More pointy, rounded shape to offer the best edge to edge feeling and agility. Mainly used on bigger wheels targeting higher speeds with lots of force on the wheels while taking a corner.